9/20/07
Kas, Turkey 5:30 pm
We are now at a pension in Kas, Turkey- a larger town on the sea. This town is touristy, but really beautiful, wish cobblestone roads, beautiful beaches and a relaxed feel. My favorite town so far. The last couple days of the trip have been marked by ups and downs. We awoke early yesterday in Ucagiz so that we could hike out in the cool part of the day- our plan was to hike to Aperlae or Apallonia- 2 sites with lots of ruins and water, and camp out sinse we’ve been staying in pensions so much. The book mentioned a well by Apallonia, so we made it our goal to hike 6 miles to that spot. The hike was rocky and already hot at 8 a.m., but it felt good to walk. Spirits were a bit low and James felt sick, but we made it to a cute a café within a couple hours and took a break with orange juice and chatted with a couple from Ireland. The owners of the café were really nice, but we felt we should move on because of the heat. We shortly made it to Aperlea, which was a sunny peninsula with ruins of tombs and old walls, and a shallow bay to swim (with another apparent sunken city). I swam, but felt nervous about sea urchins. Unfortunately, by the time we were ready to leave Aperlea, it was 11 or so, and the really hot part of the day had started. Again, we had to make a decision, and we ended up staying at a campground/ pension at Aperlea. After a nap, Sinan and I went back to the café where we met the Irelanders to ask about a possible boat ride to Kas, since hiking was so hot. Sinan chatted it up with the café owners and got a name of someone in Kilicli (a town near Apallonia) for water and a possible ride to Kas. The place we camped was not ideal, but there was 2 very cut dogs for entertainment, and was a place to get bottled water. We cooked our own food- the worst dinner of the trip so far, but it was food- and then ordered some melon from the pension.

Next morning, we awoke at sunrise again to kike to Apollonia and Kilicli. It got hot fast, and by 9 am, it was a scorcher. Fortunately, right when we were walking towards town, we met the man that Ramazan (the café owner) knew, and he told us to go to his house to get water and meet his daughter Emine (Eminable is the respectful name). We got there, and wow! The family was so super nice. Eminable immediately invited into her home, made us delicious breakfast and tea, and gave us water. Breakfast was laid out on a rug, then newspaper and included a plate of olives feta, tomatoes, fried potatoes, red pepper sauce and a piece of flat bread each. The family was all really nice and Sinan talked with them for hours while we joined in occasionally and simply enjoyed their company. Their 4 year old daughter, Huris, was super cute and flirted with all of us- especially Sinan, who could actually communicate with her. Conversation went from farming to politics to climate and back to farming. It was interesting to hear about their lives and perspectives. They live part time in the mountains, part in Kilicli, because Kilicli is so dry in the summer. Growing season is only from November to April- during the rainy season. Global warming has pushed the rainy season shorter and shorter. They said years ago, the season started in September. This year, they were back early because they needed to move their flock of animals. We watched a parade of donkeys as we sat on their porch. It was pretty amazing. They also talked about the seeds they get now, which are hybridized, and therefore won’t produce seeds, so they have to buy them year after year. Later, we had the thought that we should send them some organic seeds from the states.

The husband gave us a ride to a gas station to catch a mini bus, and we parted. The mini bus came quickly thereafter, and we arrived in Kas and got a pension, so that we could relax and explore the town. We found a cute, if tiny room, and walked to the beach for the most amazing swim of our trip. The water was freezing because it mixes with spring water from the mountains. Plus, there were so, so many fish! James got some goggles from a dive shop and we watched the fish in the cold, refreshing water. After showers and a nap, no, as the sun is setting, the now familiar calm of having a great day is settling over me.